Automatic or manual watches: Which watch to choose?

Which watch to choose: External or internal power movement?

Read the transcript of the video below:

Mechanical, Automatic, or Manual Watch? What are we talking about?

There are two main categories of wristwatches: those that require an external power source like a battery and those that require an internal power source to drive their movement. In this case, we're talking about mechanical watches, which can be further categorised as manual or automatic.

Manual watches are among the oldest and most well-known, and they have the characteristic of not having any electrical components. These watches are simply wound by turning the crown to activate the power. The winding mechanism in these watches, with its winding experience, is a system that captivates watch enthusiasts. For example, we have the Junghans Max Bill here, which operates in a manual format.

When we start winding, the rotation of the hands is transmitted through the gears to the mainspring. The mainspring gradually tightens until it reaches a stop, at which point we must stop winding to prevent it from breaking. The mainspring gradually unwinds, causing the watch to lose power with use, so you always have to be attentive to wind the watch to maintain its accuracy. It's worth noting that this winding system is highly appreciated by watch enthusiasts for its delicacy and complexity. With proper maintenance, a well-cared-for watch can last a lifetime.

An automatic watch has the ability to wind itself through a component called a rotor or oscillating weight. This component functions similarly to the crown in manual watches when it comes to winding. It winds the mainspring, gradually tightens it, and converts it into energy. Additionally, the movement of the owner's wrist helps maintain the power reserve. You can also wind it using the crown if desired. Some rotors wind in only one direction, while others are bidirectional. In this type of watch, the mainspring disconnects when it's fully wound to prevent it from breaking. Although the explanation seems straightforward, it's a highly complex system that only accomplished watchmakers can create.

I can't tell you which system is better, but it's important to consider that with manual watches, you need to remember to wind them. Additionally, we advise against winding them while wearing the watch as it can damage the system. We have an explanation about this in the video above. However, with automatic watches, this winding process is completely unnecessary, as the watch winds itself. Similarly, if you're not going to use the watch for a while and plan to set it aside, we recommend getting a watch winder to prevent deterioration over time.

It's worth noting that automatic watches tend to be slightly thicker than usual. But this is a matter of personal preference. So, what's your preference?